Screen LibraryOcean surface waves : their physics and prediction /
This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical princ...
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| Main Authors: | |
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| Corporate Authors: | |
| Published: |
World Scientific Pub. Co.,
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| Publisher Address: | Singapore ; Hackensack, N.J. : |
| Publication Dates: | 1996. |
| Literature type: | eBook |
| Language: | English |
| Series: |
Advanced series on ocean engineering ;
v. 11 |
| Subjects: | |
| Online Access: |
http://www.worldscientific.com/worldscibooks/10.1142/2285#t=toc |
| Summary: |
This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to. |
| Carrier Form: | 1 online resource (xvi,491pages) : illustrations. |
| Bibliography: | Includes bibliographical references (pages [427]-466) and indexes. |
| ISBN: | 9789812795908 |
| Index Number: | GC211 |
| CLC: | P731.22 |
| Contents: | 1. Introduction. 1.1. Waves in the ocean and their significance. 1.2. Basic assumptions on seawater and wave motion. 1.3. Methods of description of random waves -- 2. Generation of waves by wind. 2.1. Introduction. 2.2. Airflow over sea surface. 2.3. Similarity laws for wind-induced waves. 2.4. Wave generation models. 2.5. Wave energy balance in spectral form -- 3. Spectral properties of ocean waves. 3.1. Introduction. 3.2. Frequency spectra of ocean waves. 3.3. Directional spectral functions -- 4. Statistical properties of ocean waves. 4.1. Introduction. 4.2. Surface displacement. 4.3. Wave height. 4.4. Wave period. 4.5. Wave orbital velocities and pressure. 4.6. Wave group statistics -- 5. Prediction of ocean waves in deep water. 5.1. Introduction. 5.2. Basic wave processes in deep water. 5.3. Wave prediction models -- 6. Prediction of ocean waves in shallow water. 6.1. Introduction. 6.2. Basic wave processes in shallow water. 6.3. Wave prediction models -- 7. Waves at islands and coral reefs. 7.1. Introduction. 7.2. Propagation of waves over steep bottom slopes. 7.3. Maximum wave height on shoal (reef) flat. 7.4. Sheltering of surface waves by islands. 7.5. Prediction of waves on island (reef) archipelagoes. 7.6. Interaction of waves with coral reef bottoms -- 8. Long-term statistics for ocean surface waves. 8.1. Introduction. 8.2. Visual observations of wave heights. 8.3. Visual observations versus instrumental data. 8.4. Visual observations of wave periods. 8.5. Long-term distributions of wave heights. 8.6. Estimation of distribution parameters. 8.7. Goodness of fit tests and confidence intervals. 8.8. Design wave selection. 8.9. Geography of waves -- 9. Measurement, simulation and data processing. 9.1. Introduction. 9.2. A single point wave. 9.3. Measurement of wave directionality. 9.4. Remote sensing techniques. 9.5. Numerical simulation techniques -- 10. References. |